DSR1 Remote Connections & Turn On Pop Elimination
Factory Radio ConnectionIf you have a factory radio the remote input and remote output must be wired as shown below.
UPDATE for ‘14 & Up Harley Radios
We have found that ‘14 and up radios will emit a turn on pop with the accessory circuit (solid blue on DSR1) connected. This is because of the unusually long boot time of the new Harley radios. Do not connect the solid blue wire to anything on these bikes with a factory radio.
Enable DC Detect Mode
The DSR1 has a feature called DC detect mode. This allows the DSR1 to be turned on when there is music signal present at the inputs. This allows for installations without connecting the solid blue remote wire. DC Detect mode is turned on by default so you should not have to change any settings. To verify that DC detect is turned on you can go to the "Device Setup" in the Perfect Tune app and you will be able to view and change the status there.
Note: DC detect mode will not function correctly if the solid blue wire (remote in) of the DSR1 is connected to anything. This wire must not be connected!
Note: DC detect does not work when using low level input signal (RCAs from an aftermarket radio). This feature will only work with speaker level signal from a factory radio.
If Using an Aftermarket Radio
When using an aftermarket radio it is critical that you use the amplifier remote turn on wire (usually blue or blue with white stripe) to trigger the DSR1. Do this by connecting the radio’s amplifier remote turn on wire to the DSR1 solid blue wire (remote in). Some aftermarket radios will have both a blue wire and a blue/white stripe wire. If this is the case, the proper wire to use is the blue with white stripe wire. The solid blue wire on these radios is for a power antenna and will not provide 12 volts unless in Am/Fm mode (not good!).
Notice the connection point between the radio’s blue/white wire and the DSR1 solid blue wire. Most radios will have a Blue/white wire. Never connect the radios Blue/white wire to the DSR1 blue/white wire. This will destroy the power supply of the DSR1 and potentially the radio. This is not covered under warranty.
DSR1 Remote Out
The blue/white wire on the DSR1 should only be connected to the amplifier(s) remote input and never to a source of power (such as the bikes accessory circuit or any output of the radio).
Turn On Pop
Turn on pop happens when the amplifier turns on too soon and another device on the bike (usually the radio) then turns on and emits the pop sound. This pop is then amplified by the amplifier and passed to the speakers. The way to avoid this is to delay the remote turn on signal going to the amplifier. The DSR1 has a delayed output on the blue/white wire just for this reason. So if the remote turn on wires are not connected properly as shown above, you can almost guarantee a nasty turn on pop will occur.
“I Wired It Correctly and Am Still Getting a Pop.”
Sometimes there is another relay or device outside of the audio system that creates a pop in the electrical system and it makes its way through the audio system and out to the speakers after the amplifier has powered up. As you add more devices to your audio system the timing and sequence of how each device powers up becomes more critical. This is just a fact of large scale audio systems. Sometimes the delay built into the DSR1 is just not long enough. In either case the answer is to add a little more delay to the remote turn on signal coming out of the DSR1 to the amplifier. If you have already tried the DC detect mode described above, you may need to add a delay devise between the radio and the DSR1 as well. A very simple and cost effective way of doing this is to use a Pac Audio TR4. This is a tiny simple 4 wire device the that connects to the existing wiring you already have. No additional wires need to be run. Below is a wiring diagram for the TR4. A TR4 can be purchased for $18 (Shipped) if you need one. Just give us a call 1(916) 823-5256.
Connect the Green wire to the DSR1 remote out wire (blue/white) and the blue wire of the TR4 to the amplifier(s) remote input wire. Tag positive and ground (yellow & black) directly from the DSR1 power black and yellow power wires. Be sure to fuse the yellow wire if you are getting power for the DSR1 from the amplifier power terminals.
This will add an additional single second to the power up time of the amplifier. By this time all popping devices on the bike should be done doing their thing and the electrical system will once again be silent.
Turn Off Pop
Turn off pop is an entirely different issue and is not related to turn on pop. Turn off pop happens when there is a difference in ground potential between the amplifier and other devices in the system (radio and or DSP). The first thing to check is that the amplifier and DSP are both grounded directly to the battery and never the bikes frame. Grounding the DSP to the amplifier power terminals is also acceptable as long as the amplifier is grounded directly to the battery.
Bad or Pinched RCAs
A bad RCA shield (outside ring) connection will have the same effect as a bad amplifier ground.